One of the greatest luxuries we can treat ourselves to these days is to close our laptops, turn off our phones, and enjoy some time with friends in a majestic location. Few places fit that description better than northern Wyoming.
We were lucky enough to experience that first hand when we were invited to spend a few days riding some of the newest BMW motorcycles in what is undoubtedly the most inclusive motorcycling event we’ve ever experienced, the Devilstone Run.
The ride is aptly named, beginning at Devil’s Tower, running through Yellowstone National Park, and ending in the Grand Tetons. The inaugural run took place 8 years ago when Brady McLean, a motorcyclist and entrepreneur, decided to invite a few dozen of his friends to enjoy the spectacular roads and scenery of his home state.
This year, 125 riders – the maximum allowed on the event – took part. We were with a group of like-minded motorcycle and travel journalists who were there to share the experience with their readers and followers. BMW provided us with five bikes for the trip including three of their newer models: the R 18 Roctane, a big bagger with style for days, the R 12, a naked cruiser that covered the distance with surprising comfort, and the R 1300 GS Adventure, and adventure bike that’s as comfortable on the trails as it is on the street. Rounding out our fleet was the iconic street-fighter, the R 12 nineT, and the F 900 GS Adventure, BMW’s more approachable adventure bike.
We each took turns riding the different bikes allowing us to evaluate them on some of the best roads and trails this country has to offer.
Majestic From Start To Finish
Whether you join the Devilstone Run or choose to ride through Wyoming on your own at another time, there are a lot of options for lodging, food, activities, and routes. Our trip involved three days of riding point to point, leaving around 10 each morning and arriving at our destination in the early afternoon. You may want to consider staying an extra day or two at each destination to explore more of what the towns have to offer.
Our route took us from Gillette to Sheridan on day one, to Cody on day two, with our final stop in Jackson after a third day of riding. Each town has its own personality and opportunities for adventure. A few of our favorite attractions in each town are:
- The Frontier Auto Museum in Gillette
- The First People’s Powwow in Sheridan
- The Buffalo Bill Center of the West in Cody
- Eco Tour Adventures in Jackson Hole
R 1300 GS Adventure: On And Off The Beaten Path
On the ride from Sheridan to Cody, I opted for the big adventure bike, the R 1300 GS. I was looking forward to an alternate route that a few of us would be taking off the pavement and onto trails through the Bighorn Mountains in addition to some of the most scenic two lane highways ever carved in this country.
The GS was perfect for this mission, with tons of low end torque that helped me scramble of the face of several rocky sections of the trail with ease. On the pavement it is confident and comfortable, especially for tall riders like me. Loaded with tech including ABS, traction control, and wheelie control (a necessity with all this torque), this is one of the best ways to see the country, both on road and off.
The Luxury of Authenticity
While most riders on the Devilstone Run camp in trailers or tents, we opted for the comfort of hotel rooms along the way. Our favorite, and one we’ve stayed in before, is the Sheridan Inn, a 22-room boutique hotel with well appointed rooms and luxurious baths, a necessity after a long day on the road.
Opened in 1893, the Inn was the primary residence of Buffalo Bill Cody from 1894 to 1906. Each room is named after a character from Buffalo Bill’s life and each is a mini museum to its namesake.
For history buffs, make sure to stop for a beverage at the Open Range Bar in the hotel. It features the original cherrywood bar which was a gift to Buffalo Bill from Queen Victoria after his Wild West Show performed for her majesty in London on May 11, 1887.
R 12 and R 12 NineT: Modern Classics
Even though they share a 1200 cc boxer engine and one piece tubular space frame, the R 12 and R 12 NineT feel like very different motorcycles. The R 12, tuned for cruising, offers slightly less power and a more supple ride. It’s classic look is reminiscent of BMW’s /5 series bikes from the ’70s. It’s easy to ride and comfortable, making it a great bike for trips around town and short weekend rides, but it was still perfectly at home on our three-day, 500 mile tour.
The R 12 Nine T takes everything up a notch, increasing the power to 109 thundering horses. The brushed aluminum tank, red powder-coated frame and revised suspension geometry that has been tweaked for performance, come together to create a bike that is both willing and capable. It’s a true roadster that will have you looking forward to all the twists and turns ahead.
It’s All Fun and Games
At the end of each day, most riders set up their tents and settle in for an evening of camaraderie, communion, and a little bit of entertainment. Organizers of the run ensure there’s a selection of food at each stop that, while not gourmet, offers a satisfying variety for the diverse crowd.
The stops are a little like the villages at a Grateful Dead or Phish concert with vendors selling gear, a tattoo artist on site, plenty of music, and of course friendly competition. Slow races are a great way to test a riders skill and balance. The object is to reach the finish line last without putting your foot down. It’s a relatively easy competition with one person on the bike, but the fun really starts when riders have to do it with one or even two passengers aboard.
R 18 Roctane: An American Classic with German Roots
BMW introduced the R 18 in 2021 in an effort to carve out a hunk of the high-end cruiser market in the United States, where bikes like the Harley Road King and Indian Super Chief rule the road. The R 18 is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful bikes on the road. We drove the R 18 First Edition model when it came out and loved the torque and power, but were less than impressed with the ride. The low ride height that gives its presence also made cornering difficult as the pegs dragged even at modest speeds.
BMW appears to have listened and fitted the Roctane with larger wheels, lifting the bike up just enough to solve the problem without ruining the look. The big twin provides plenty of low end power for the mountain passes, and the 27-liter side cases are generous enough to carry a weekend’s worth of clothing and gear.
Cody/Yellowstone: The Real West
Yellowstone is our first national park and even if you drive through it on a day trip, you’re treated to amazing vistas. Take some time to stop and you’ll see some of the most iconic landmarks in the U.S. including Old Faithful, the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, Grand Prismatic Spring, and Yellowstone Lake.
Cody Wyoming is 52 miles east of Yellowstone, and was founded in 1896 as a staging area for the park. Today it’s much more than that. Brimming with history and authenticity, we recommend staying at the luxurious, 21-room Chamberlain Inn which has been completely renovated. It is a quiet retreat from the hustle and bustle of historic Main Street, even though it’s just a block away. Breakfast at Buffalo Bill’s Hotel Irma restaurant is highly recommended.
F 900 GS Adventure: An Ideal Blend of Capability and Comfort
While the R 1300 is BMW’s flagship adventure bike, the smaller, lighter, less powerful F 900 GS has a lot going for it. With more than 100 horsepower it has plenty of oomph to climb rutted trails even at altitude or power you along a long stretch of two-lane highways through the mountains. The tall, upright seating position gives you excellent visibility of the trail ahead, even when you’re not standing on the pegs, and the suspension with adjustable damping soaks up the bumps and holes in the trail.
The manually adjustable windshield reduces fatigue on long high speed runs. And the 6.5″ TFT color display with BMW Motorrad Connectivity, displays maps and other critical information you’ll need on your trips.
Jackson, Wyoming: The end of the line
The Jackson Hole and Grand Teton area is as scenic as it gets. Maybe that’s why Teton county is the richest in the country. It shows in the hotels, restaurants, and shops that line the city’s streets. Great food is available almost anywhere, but to get the true Jackson experience, grab a table at the Million Dollar Cowboy Steakhouse.
While most people know the are for skiing, it’s a year ’round destination for all kinds of outdoor and adventure activities. Amangani Resort is one of the nicest hotels in the country with amazing views of the valley. For this trip we stayed at the Mountain Modern, a newly renovated motor inn, with a fun vibe and funky decor designed specifically for skiers, snowboarders, mountain bikers and other adventurers with in-room storage for all your gear.
